Ben Thouard has to get into gear in order to photograph surfers riding Teahupo’o’s treacherous swells.
Ben Thouard discovered an antique camera in his parents’ attic while he was a youngster. The moment would unite two hobbies, photography and surfing, one new and the other ancient.
“I went to the beach with the camera right away,” he remarked. “I began taking pictures of my friends surfing.”
Mr. Thouard was born and raised in Toulon, France, a port city on the Mediterranean coast, where he also learnt to surf. He claimed that he loved the sport in spite of the boring waves.
Mr. Thouard relocated to Tahiti, French Polynesia, in 2008. He works as an ocean photographer, capturing the sapphire waters that serve as the backdrop for surf and wind sports.
However, Mr. Thouard dons a wet suit, swim fins, and goggles and enters the water to take pictures rather than standing on a boat. (His waterproof case serves as its “house.”)
He can tread water with the light gear and dive under the surface when the waves get closer. He can swim to correct his position in the event that he notices an approaching “set,” or set of waves. Mr. Thouard has the ability to take pictures of surfers riding the swells from under the waves or within their barrels. His images immerse viewers in the action, giving them the impression that they are themselves breaking through the surf or cresting the wave.
His images and video recordings were recently published in a piece about Teahupo’o, the Tahitian village that is home to the Paris Olympic surfing competition, in the New York Times Magazine. With waves as high as fifty feet off the coast, Teahupo’o, which translates roughly to “wall of skulls,” is among the world’s worst surf breaks.
Mr. Thouard is always excited to get in the sea, even though surfing can be dangerous, just like his profession.
“I consider myself incredibly fortunate to work in those Tahitian waters,” he remarked. “I want to convey the place’s magic as well as the waves’ strength and beauty.”
During a Wednesday phone chat, he discussed his work and the reasons behind his fascination with the ocean. This is a shortened and edited version of the interview.
How do you take pictures while surfing?
I take ninety-nine percent of my pictures while I’m swimming. I’ve always believed that in order to get what I desire, I must be in the water. Whether I’m shooting surfers from the boat or on the beach, I get agitated. My first inspiration and top priority come from being in the sea. It provides an excellent viewpoint, particularly when attempting to convey to the readers the feelings you have for the seas.
What impact does your history in surfing have on your photography?
You are aware of how the wave breaks, where the surfer will go, and what he is searching for.
Anticipation is the key to photography in general. in particular, photography of water. Not only are you caring for your camera, but you’re also maintaining your posture while swimming. Instead of holding your camera in your hand, it is inside the water housing. When the set suddenly appears in the distance, you need to start swimming and kicking to correct your position. You have to plan for everything. To not miss the moment, anticipation is essential.
How risky is the work you do?
The sea isn’t always smooth. It’s a setting that needs caution and safety. You must possess good physical health and knowledge of your craft.
I have been a surfer since my childhood. Every week, I swim and surf in order to shoot pictures. You obviously stay in shape while doing it. There are times when the physical demands are extreme. Because you are aware of where you should and shouldn’t be, there is less risk when you know what you’re doing. It’s always risky to film large waves from a wide angle when you wish to go close to them.
What do you want readers to remember about your writing?
I want to acknowledge the surfers. There are true fighters out there who are surfing those waves. It takes a lot of dedication to go up on those waves, put your head down, and go through that barrel. In addition, I want to convey the surfer’s dedication to their descent as well as the strength and beauty that coexist in the ocean.